Standing dramatically on the cliff tops between Craster and Embleton in Northumberland is Dunstanburgh Castle. The Castle is now largely ruinous although it rated at one time among the largest and grandest castles in the North of England.
Today the only way to reach Dunstanburgh Castle is on foot along the exposed Northumberland coastline. We started out at Craster, home of the famous Robson and Son smoke house. The weather was overcast and windy, with the tide edging in as we walked, leading to some stunning waves breaking against the rocky coastline.
The route along the coast is littered with wildlife from various cattle to the Spot Eider Duck (known locally as Cuddy’s Duck after St. Cuthbert) and I won’t lie, lots of cow pats!
The castle itself, on which building commenced in 1313 by The Earl of Lancaster, sits alone, fringed on two sides by the North Sea, looking bleak and imposing. A great deal of the castle sits in ruin but it is still possible to climb (some very steep stairs) to the top of one of the towers. Once at the top it offers imposing views out across the North Sea, back to Craster and in the distance Bamburgh Castle.
As you walk the perimeter of the grounds you are rewarded with more magnificent views down into Gull Crag, whose 30 metre high cliffs provided ideal defences for the castle, and Queen Margaret’s Cove, where the waves crash in and over where the medieval builders placed the latrines!
Although it is in a ruinous state Dunstanburgh remains steeped in history and for all of its bleakness it is a stunning, peaceful reward at the end (or the middle) of your walk.
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